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Walter Van Beirendonck S/S 2006
Relics From the Future,
Photography: Ronald Stoops, Make-up: Inge Grognard |
Technology and techniques or craftsmanship form the subject in Techno Crafts. The tension
between the two is central to numerous collections. In the W.&L.T. collections, Van Beirendonck
enjoyed experimenting with high-tech fabrics and state-of-the-art materials, such as
neoprene, reflecting fabrics and glow-in-the-dark materials. Prints were treated with perfume
so that a print of a strawberry literally smelled like strawberries. Light and sound
effects were incorporated in the clothing and the production of a plastic, inflatable jacket
imitating a muscleman torso was a technical tour de force. Thanks to Mustang’s large budgets,
extensive professional team and outstanding Italian manufacturers, Van Beirendonck
had the opportunity to indulge in the most outlandish experiments, using exceptional
materials such as rubber, latex or plastic. During the same period, Van Beirendonck was
part of the Brussels Starlab, a multidisciplinary think tank that not only conducted research
into new media, nano electronics, artificial intelligence and stem cell research, but also
conducted research into intelligent clothing.
When the collaboration with Mustang came to an end, Van Beirendonck returned to
more traditional techniques. His first collection from this period, No References (autumnwinter
1999–2000), is an experiment in form pushed to the limits, in which he used
traditional tailoring techniques to create new forms, always keeping it in perspective with
the characteristic Van Beirendonck humour.
Beginning with Sexclown (spring-summer 2008), Van Beirendonck incorporated threedimensional
effects into his tailoring. In Sexclown, this is still in the form of box-shaped
volumes, almost literally borrowed from the shields (Maiva) used in Papua New Guinea. In
subsequent collections, the 3-D effects are more subtle, in the form of reversible collars,
bows or stitched-on pockets. In this theme, ethnology is once again a source of inspiration,
in this case in the form of techniques and materials, for example in the incorporation of
straw and raffia or bead and appliqué embroidery. Embroidery, from appliqué to ajour
embroidery, is found in virtually every collection.
